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Jointmaker Pro Bench Hook

May 11th, 2010 5 comments

Not having a space for a dedicated stand for my Jointmaker Pro (note: link is to newer version of JMP) I needed a better solution for quicker setup and usage of the tool. I have been using it on a desk and that just wasn’t cutting it (pun intended… sadly) You see the tool works best, with respect to ergonomics and work visibility, at a slight angle. Additionally the tool really needs to be anchored down as it has a penchant for doing the jitterbug.

Like most tools, I would like to use this tool at the good ‘ole workbench. How do we facilitate the usage of many other tools at the workbench? The first person that answered “bench-hook jigs” goes to the second row of the class. If you just read ahead for the answer and didn’t even venture a guess you go the head of the class as I also don’t like to be asked questions when reading silly blogs like this one.

So here is the fruit of my labor (that phrase makes me feel like I just when through childbirth… probably a similar process except less messy). I didn’t design any of it. I just identified an angle of elevation that I found desirable and built the box around that, employing mostly pocket hole joinery.

Completed Jointmaker Pro (JMP) Bench Hook

Pocket Hole Joinery

I made the hook to slip fit in to the junk (a.k.a. tool) tray and over the front of the bench. I guess in that regard it’s really not a hook but more of a two-time hooker.

To anchor the saw to the bench hook I installed T-Track and made some rather beefy hold-downs out of poplar. I wasn’t looking for elegance here… it’s a jig, right…

Poplar Hold Downs

Here’s a short video overview of the jig, plus the saw in action. Be kind… the camera adds ten lbs… apparently directly to the belly.

Categories: Hand Tools, Tool Porn Tags:

Texture me surprised

October 12th, 2009 6 comments

NOTE: Please note that I’ve moved this site from wordpress.com (www.woodzealot.wordpress.com) to this hosted site (www.woodzealot.com). You may need to resubscribe to this blog to continue to receive posts delivered to your RSS reader. If you happened to link to my site in the past, first, why would you do so? And second, please relink to my site. Thanks!

So I was in the shop the other day fumbling around looking for a tool that I had most definitely put back in it’s proper place after it’s previous use, but has since migrated elsewhere, when my eyes became trained on a particular object. If you are thinking that the object was probably shiny, you are correct. The object of my gaze this time was a corrugated fastener which found itself separated from the herd. With my eyes fixed, the fastener gestured to me to come pick it up while saying “look at me, don’t I look like a beading profile.” I replied “why yes you do… and you’re just a little bit vein aren’t you?”

I grabbed it as-is and stuck it in my Veritas beader and went to town on a Mahogany offcut with many existing surface blemishes. Surprisingly the results weren’t completely horrible. Definitely worth playing with further…

IMG_3063 mohag

Next, I rather hastily attempted to refine the cutter by removing the bevel and finished by jointing the top surface. The third photo below shows my cutter on the left versus a virginal corrugated fastener on the right.

removingBevel jointing cuttercompare

I probably should have taken more time and been more exacting in this effort but I was anxious to get to scratching. With my jock itch relieved, I put this new cutter to work. Ideally the profile in the cutters are all 90 degrees as the Village Carpenter explains. The corrugations clearly prevent this, but it didn’t seem to create much of a problem. Here is the results in some rock maple (looks a little odd as I did it right along the heartwood/sapwood border).

maple maple2

For some reason the tactile feedback you get with scraping and scratching things is just too much fun (probably why my mosquito bites tend to never heal). The Veritas beading tool ships with predefined cutters but also with blanks for you to create custom cutters (or scrapers really). Another option is to grab an old Stanley 66 beader off ebay (can be seen in the photo above). It has a nice feel and a good fence for solid reference against square edges. I’d still recommend the Veritas though as it allows for wider profiles (such as these corrugated fasteners) and is presumably better for profiling curvilinear pieces as you can reconfigure the fence into a bullnose position (haven’t tested this but it makes sense).  Course, you really don’t even have to spend a penny for a beading tool. Visit any woodworking forum for helpful threads on making your own scratch stock as well as making the cutters from old hacksaw/bandsaw blades.

If you do want to make your own scratch-stock, you won’t do any better than following this post by The Village Carpenter where she walks you through making two incarnations of beaders. Grab some corrugated fasteners and do some beading for very little cost! Wait, what am I saying… just contact me to place an order for one of my special beading cutters for the low, low price of $9.95 per beader (only $13.95 with undercoating option added). Ask for the “Wood Zealot Special” and you’ll get 2 cutters for just $29.95. You can’t get these cutters anywhere else! Act now! Limited time offer!


Categories: Antique Tools, Hand Tools, Tools Tags:

Soup De Jour – Rust Soup

February 21st, 2008 1 comment

img_2958.jpg

Mmmmm…. Nothing better than some rust soup when you’re trying to restore old tools. If you collect old woodworking tools, one thing you will not be able to avoid is dealing with rust at some point or another. I got my hands on a sweet Siegley 8 jointer plane. These pre-Stanley planes are not very easy to come by so I was pretty happy to get one even though the one I got was pretty much concealed in a nice layer of rust. Despite its outward appearance, I could still see the beauty that lay beneath (yeah, I may have had a couple drinks first… you know how it goes… you have a couple beverages and that rusty jointer starts looking pretty good from way across the web). So the simple answer was a little electrolysis. No, no… Not the kind that resulted in me sporting some sort of spectacular brazilian. The sort of electrolysis needed here would hopefully prove less painful than that.

I of course performed my due diligence here (i.e. i did a Google on it and skimmed through the first search result for the main points) and learned that all I needed was a bucket, battery charger, soda powder, and a piece of metal. Yes, there was scientificky talk of anodes, electrons, and cathodes. Whatever… I’ve got the web so I don’t need to understand that stuff. I just hook everything up and flip the switch and start cooking! Bubbles start coming up and the rust follows. Pretty cool stuff, huh?!? It worked and I didn’t die so mission accomplished.

Disclaimer: If you attempt to perform electrolysis yourself referencing my blog as some sort of instructions you are a complete idiot and need to be put down for the sake of the gene pool. Improperly performed electrolysis can result in explosion, electrocution, and many other things that would otherwise ruin your day. I mean what kind of idiot reads this stuff off the internet and gives it a try based on good faith??? In terms of full disclosure I should note that ever since I did this I have had a slight ringing in my ears and a persistent shooting pain through my genitalia. If that blade didn’t end up so shiny I’d have to really weigh whether it was worth it.

[slideshow id=288230376167508720&w=426&h=320]

As you can see in the after pic the blade came out pretty clean. After I restore the plane body it will make a nice collector. As would be expected the blade sustained enough pitting to render it useless as a user plane since it will never hold a keen edge. Still you have to admit that is one dead-sexy blade. You know you want to touch it.

Blade BeforeBlade After

Categories: Antique Tools, Hand Tools Tags: