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	<title>Comments on: Making a .001 clearance insert</title>
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	<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/</link>
	<description>I&#039;m happy to see you... but honestly that IS a try square in my pocket!</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:41:42 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: rgdaniel</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-196</link>
		<dc:creator>rgdaniel</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Aug 2009 04:29:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-196</guid>
		<description>That&#039;s some mighty fine comedy writing there, I must say... and the post about the groundhog? Pure gold! And the bit chucking? Did NOT see that coming... I&#039;m on to you now though, fool me twice, won&#039;t get fooled again...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That&#8217;s some mighty fine comedy writing there, I must say&#8230; and the post about the groundhog? Pure gold! And the bit chucking? Did NOT see that coming&#8230; I&#8217;m on to you now though, fool me twice, won&#8217;t get fooled again&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Wood Zealot</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-194</link>
		<dc:creator>Wood Zealot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:47:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-194</guid>
		<description>Thanks WoodMangler. After reading around, the way you mentioned is the best way to make a ZCI in my opinion too. Makes a perfect copy in the safest way.

I have the patter bit and you are right, it definitely gets annoying after a while. When that happens I just switch it out with the matching pitter bit. heh.

Thanks for concisely stating a great and safe way to make a ZCI!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks WoodMangler. After reading around, the way you mentioned is the best way to make a ZCI in my opinion too. Makes a perfect copy in the safest way.</p>
<p>I have the patter bit and you are right, it definitely gets annoying after a while. When that happens I just switch it out with the matching pitter bit. heh.</p>
<p>Thanks for concisely stating a great and safe way to make a ZCI!</p>
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		<title>By: WoodMangler</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-193</link>
		<dc:creator>WoodMangler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:26:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-193</guid>
		<description>ha. &quot;Pattern&quot; bit is what I was looking for. Not patter. That would get annoying.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>ha. &#8220;Pattern&#8221; bit is what I was looking for. Not patter. That would get annoying.</p>
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		<title>By: WoodMangler</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-192</link>
		<dc:creator>WoodMangler</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 18:24:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-192</guid>
		<description>The easiest, safest, and most accurate way to make the ZCI is to start by carpet-taping the rough blank to the stock insert, rout it using a patter bit and the stock insert as a guide, and then (and this is the important part) without removing it from the stock insert, place it back into the table saw and raise the blade through it. Only then do you remove it from the stock insert. You get an exact copy of your stock insert, a perfectly placed kerf, and your hands are safe the entire time.

When making mine, I then used my router table fence and a 1/4&quot; spiral bit to cut the slot for the splitter attachment. ZCI or not, I feel better when that&#039;s in there.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The easiest, safest, and most accurate way to make the ZCI is to start by carpet-taping the rough blank to the stock insert, rout it using a patter bit and the stock insert as a guide, and then (and this is the important part) without removing it from the stock insert, place it back into the table saw and raise the blade through it. Only then do you remove it from the stock insert. You get an exact copy of your stock insert, a perfectly placed kerf, and your hands are safe the entire time.</p>
<p>When making mine, I then used my router table fence and a 1/4&#8243; spiral bit to cut the slot for the splitter attachment. ZCI or not, I feel better when that&#8217;s in there.</p>
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		<title>By: woodzealot</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-/#comment-191</link>
		<dc:creator>woodzealot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:01:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-191</guid>
		<description>Thanks.... I think? I&#039;d probably give nuts a bad name and since I feel for nuts (ya know, Bundy-style when I&#039;m in a recliner watching the game) I&#039;m not sure if I am worthy of such an illustrious title.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks&#8230;. I think? I&#8217;d probably give nuts a bad name and since I feel for nuts (ya know, Bundy-style when I&#8217;m in a recliner watching the game) I&#8217;m not sure if I am worthy of such an illustrious title.</p>
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		<title>By: village carpenter</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-190</link>
		<dc:creator>village carpenter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Jul 2009 17:32:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-190</guid>
		<description>Charles, a few things:

1) You&#039;re a nut. And I mean that in a very good way. I was going to say that I love nuts, but that sounds naughty.
2) I will never utter the word &quot;onomatopoeia&quot; again without thinking about something naughty.
3) Phenolic and plywood are better choices than hardwood for inserts, because they&#039;re not knotty.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Charles, a few things:</p>
<p>1) You&#8217;re a nut. And I mean that in a very good way. I was going to say that I love nuts, but that sounds naughty.<br />
2) I will never utter the word &#8220;onomatopoeia&#8221; again without thinking about something naughty.<br />
3) Phenolic and plywood are better choices than hardwood for inserts, because they&#8217;re not knotty.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: woodzealot</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-189</link>
		<dc:creator>woodzealot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2009 21:55:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-189</guid>
		<description>Rob,
First, great avatar. Thanks for your comments. I thought about a smaller blade, but my my circ saw is the small 5&quot; skill saw. Didn&#039;t even think about using the dado blade. Removing some material from the bottom of the insert would have been another good option. My brain really wasn&#039;t earning it&#039;s keep when I did this, although the carpet tape idea finally worked like a charm.

Recently received Leecraft phenolic insert and their instructions added another decent idea of using the leveling screws to lift the insert above the blade. It seems that anyway of doing this besides what I originally attempted should work. I think I&#039;ll cut the beginning kerf on this new insert using your dado blade idea if the thicknesses are close, otherwise carpet-tape again probably. Or maybe I should actually follow manufacturer instructions for the first time in my life... just for the novelty of it.

Thanks man!
Charles</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rob,<br />
First, great avatar. Thanks for your comments. I thought about a smaller blade, but my my circ saw is the small 5&#8243; skill saw. Didn&#8217;t even think about using the dado blade. Removing some material from the bottom of the insert would have been another good option. My brain really wasn&#8217;t earning it&#8217;s keep when I did this, although the carpet tape idea finally worked like a charm.</p>
<p>Recently received Leecraft phenolic insert and their instructions added another decent idea of using the leveling screws to lift the insert above the blade. It seems that anyway of doing this besides what I originally attempted should work. I think I&#8217;ll cut the beginning kerf on this new insert using your dado blade idea if the thicknesses are close, otherwise carpet-tape again probably. Or maybe I should actually follow manufacturer instructions for the first time in my life&#8230; just for the novelty of it.</p>
<p>Thanks man!<br />
Charles</p>
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		<title>By: Rob Young</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-188</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob Young</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2009 21:08:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-188</guid>
		<description>re: ZCI slot starting

1) Change blade to a smaller diameter before starting the cut.  Just be sure it has the same nominal width at the blade you intend to use.  And 8&quot; or 6&quot; outer blade from a stack dado set is good for full-width, a 7-1/4&quot; circular saw blade is good for narrow.  Raise just enough to start exposing the teeth through the top.  Drop that blade back down, turn off, unplug and switch back to your &quot;real&quot; blade and finish the cut.

2) Go back to your router table (or do it by hand with a plane or even chisels) and cut a rabbet on the bottom side of the ZCI to clear the tips of the 10&quot; blade so it can start cutting.  You can cut a through rabbet or a stopped rabbet.  The stopped rabbet has the advantage of leaving more material behind, you only need to remove enough to clear the top three or four teeth of the 10&quot; blade anyway.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>re: ZCI slot starting</p>
<p>1) Change blade to a smaller diameter before starting the cut.  Just be sure it has the same nominal width at the blade you intend to use.  And 8&#8243; or 6&#8243; outer blade from a stack dado set is good for full-width, a 7-1/4&#8243; circular saw blade is good for narrow.  Raise just enough to start exposing the teeth through the top.  Drop that blade back down, turn off, unplug and switch back to your &#8220;real&#8221; blade and finish the cut.</p>
<p>2) Go back to your router table (or do it by hand with a plane or even chisels) and cut a rabbet on the bottom side of the ZCI to clear the tips of the 10&#8243; blade so it can start cutting.  You can cut a through rabbet or a stopped rabbet.  The stopped rabbet has the advantage of leaving more material behind, you only need to remove enough to clear the top three or four teeth of the 10&#8243; blade anyway.</p>
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		<title>By: woodzealot</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-187</link>
		<dc:creator>woodzealot</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Jul 2009 20:26:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-187</guid>
		<description>The purpose of bit chucking is to rage against the machine.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The purpose of bit chucking is to rage against the machine.</p>
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		<title>By: ed</title>
		<link>http://www.woodzealot.com/2009/06/28/making-a-001-clearance-insert/comment-page-1/#comment-186</link>
		<dc:creator>ed</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Jul 2009 19:19:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://woodzealot.wordpress.com/?p=670#comment-186</guid>
		<description>What is the purpose of bit chucking??  Good luck?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>What is the purpose of bit chucking??  Good luck?</p>
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